Italy – Scilla 18/09/16 – 22/09/16

Another trip south bound in Italy from Salerno to Scilla. If you image Italy to be a boot, Scilla is on the big toe inside the boot. The journey took around 4 hours with 1 change of station at a cost of €25 per person. As always the trip was amazing, mostly coastal through tiny small towns and beach side villages. Once arrived we were met by Pablo, who walked us to our apparent, where we are staying for 4 nights. It was great to know our digs were only a 2 minute walk from the station, and was on the beach front, lovely. Scilla is a small town made up of what looks like 3 small villages all very close to each other. We are staying on the beach front, where the hotel’s, bars and restaurants are only meters away. And perched high above is the old castle on the cliff edge. The second part, is the “new town”, perched high above and over looking the beach – (there must be 100 steps to get to it). Lastly there’s the old fisherman’s village – Chianalea, where the old houses are literally on the sea edge with the waves lapping up onto them at all times. Here you can wander around through the cutest, narrowest little streets. All cobbled with the only access to the next street are up lots of tiny steps. A delightful wee spot, off the main tourist trap, but we’ll worth a visit. This place has a range of bars and seafront restaurants.
The morning after our arrival, we headed for the towns 1 and only supermarket, up the “100” steps and through yet another myriad of lovely but steep streets. Eventually we found it, tucked away in a street and set back from the road side, you literally have to walk right up to it to know it’s there. Groceries bought we headed back into the fisherman’s village, thankfully with a back pack full, it was down hill. These lanes are even more impressive in day light, with the sun shining down on them. It’s houses are brilliantly and tastefully made out of stone, most are 5 or 6 stories high, and with many beautiful flowers draping over balconies, which are surprisingly still in bloom. Each window is dressed with decorative wooden shutters, and as these are the homes of the locals, we could see many an old lady tending to her ritual of hanging laundry out over balconies, beating mats with brooms, some sweeping and mopping the external steps, it was if they don’t notice any tourists, it’s quite magical. On the seas edge, each house is detached, and between each one you can see directly to the ocean, with many of them having rowing boats moored up. It is stunning, not commercialized at all, and I wouldn’t be surprised to think this is how’s it’s been for centuries.
Later that evening we strolled out for a drink, to find all the beach cafes etc have gone, packed up, literally disappeared from the beach! Some were being taken to pieces and loaded onto the back of a lorry. I know we are here at the back end of the season, but to have a holiday town simply pack up overnight is incredible. However our stroll to the fishing village, found that it was as it had been last night, I bet these little restaurants and bars are open throughout the year. We found a tiny little wine bar in one of the streets, where we settled for a glass of the local vino and an Anti pasta platter of the most gorgeous array of 5 cheeses, the best and finest tasting ham and procetto with a few bruschettas thrown in along with a handful of grapes. Lovely all as we sat and watched the sun set with the noise of the oceans waves crashing against the houses.
The following day and it appears all tourists have now left the are, the only people left are the locals. We set off in search of the entrance to the castle, perched high upon the cliffs overlooking the sea, again up those 100 steps. Entrance fee was €2 pp with free oxygen! What a lovely advantage point to look across all three areas of Scilla, views for miles. The castle dates back to the 17th century and has changed ownership many times and currently is owned by the military who house a maritime museum in its walls. Only a small fraction of the original castle is open to the public, but what you get to see is very tastefully done. Some parts in its original form yet other areas updated and restored. It’s well worth the effort to climb those steps.
That night we went out for dinner, but to find a restaurant still open was a task in itself. We did eventually come across a very nice restaurant on the sea front. Tina had the swordfish, (something that is in plentiful supply here), and I had the carbonara. Both very tasty as they were washed down with the local red wine. Not sure if I’ve mentioned this yet, but here in Italy they serve their red wine cold, out of the fridge. Odd but definitely on the plus side, it’s great.