Italy – Isle of Capri 13/09/16

Another outstanding day, this time a ferry from Salerno to the beautiful Isle of Capri. The cost of the was €50 pp return and the journey took around 2 hours each way.
An early start as we had to be at the port for 7.30am. It was a glorious morning, the sun, like us just recently out of bed, the sky was clear and blue with not a cloud in sight and a very gentle breeze was about the air. Our ferry stopped to collect other passengers at the town of Amalfi and also at Positano which meant we travelled along and got a fantastic view of the whole of the Amalfi Coast. Seeing it from sea gave it a whole new perspective in the early morning sunshine. It was similar to the views which we saw along Cinque Terra, but on a more grand scale. The Amalfi Coast is stunning, beautiful and magical in every way possible, seeing the towns stretch from sea level high up the cliffs in all their colours is magnificent, and as we collected other passengers we got a very “up close” look at each town. There are also other smaller towns dotted along this coast, each as amazing as their larger counterparts, all with breathtaking scenery. (More about the town of Amalfi in another blog as we will be visiting it on another day trip later in the week).
As we were one of the first to board the vessel, we were able to get great seats on the open upper deck, so took full advantage of this in various photo shoots. The sea was easy going as we kept close to the shoreline so a very pleasant sailing it was. We arrived at Marina Grande in Capri alongside several other ocean going liners, so the area was packed, full of day trippers and holiday makers (with various sizes of suit cases), all trying to get into the town. Along with this were several hundred passengers leaving the island, and towing their luggage. It was manic, no decorum, no structure, no one knowing which way to go. Languages spoken in many tongues, people getting frustrated with each other, tempers flying, pushing and shoving in all directions. On top of all this confusion was that the island was being invaded by hundreds of SAGA holiday makers. Wheelchairs, walking sticks, you name it they were everywhere. These dainty little old dears (who I presume wouldn’t say boo to a stranger), suddenly became the most loudest, rudest, impolite people ever. Most of which taking the same stance, that of holding their large handbags at arms length, at shoulder height and barrelling through complete strangers – absolute chaos.
On shore in the Marina, we headed straight to the nearest cafe and had breakfast. 2 hot chocs, 2 bottles of water and 2 ham n cheese toasties, yum but at an incredible cost of €38. The Isle of Capri is certainly not a cheap day out! Once refreshed we headed to the bus stop, about 100m away as we wanted to go to Anacapri. Bus tickets costing €4 pp return, and we waited in line for it to arrive. As I said before the island was packed so we weren’t able to get on the first bus to arrive. I say bus, but it’s actually a minibus and we were in horror watching how many got on this bus. When it was our turn to board, we unfortunately were the last on and were squeezed in just inside the door on its internal step. I read a sign and translated it saying it was a 42 person bus. No way, not sure how many exactly but there were lots more on this bus. The journey took 15 minutes up the very steep hill, twisting and turning, throwing everyone on board this way than that way. A great white knuckle, finger biting, cliff hanging trip and not for the faint hearted. I was facing out of the glass doors, (which didn’t meet as there were an inch gap between them), and Tina had her face squashed against my chest, with another ladies boob on her left shoulder, it was very up close and personal on board. As we were the last on, we were the first off at Piazza Vittoria, and counted 50+ other people exiting. Looking back into the empty bus, I noticed there were 6 single seats and 1 double seat, everyone else had been standing!!!! What a relief to get off, oh and the only air con was a small window opened half way along the bus. Still it adds to the adventure. If you’re not happy bumping uglies with strangers get the cool elongated open backed taxi’s.
A quick question asked at the info office and we walked 100m or so and joined the line for the chair lift to Mount Solaro, the return journey costing €11 pp. We had read about this on Trip Advisor and thought it a must do activity. What this turned out to be was single chairs spaced about 12 feet apart, being hoisted up a hill, similar to the double chair lifts you find in ski resorts. Very basic, very primate, but hugely fun. To get in the chairs you wait in line until called, then stand – facing forwards until you feel the seat of the chair banging into the back of your knees, then quickly sit down, all whilst the chair is continually moving. What fun to people watch as we waited in line, however when it came to our turn, it wasn’t as easy as it looked. Once sat a bar comes down across your knees to secure you in position, and your flung off the walkway into the abyss, swaying slightly backwards and forwards. Again great fun, 2 extreme rides in one day, what a blast. The journey up takes approx 13 minutes, but it seems a lot longer, to your left your never more than 3 meters off the ground, but looking to your right, you gradually get further and further away from the ground. At some stage you must be 100m or so from the ground beneath you. It was a weird experience, we half expected to have a sticker slapped on us at the top and to get shoved in a box! The views were amazing, on a day like today you could see for miles. At the top of the mountain you pull your feet up until they hit the ground, then instantly push up the bar and run out of your seats. This was in itself a great activity to watch as we were followed up the hill by the saga brigade – huge belly throbbing laughter. A few more steps and your their, at the highest point of the island, 360’ views to die for. We were so high up, it started getting quite misty, but the views remain. Stunning, beautiful, mesmerizing and many more descriptive words could be used to describe it’s natural outstanding beauty. It’s absolutely gorgeous. We took our time to wonder around the top, taking many many photos, and there as the mist depleted we saw, could it be, yep a bar. On top of a mountain, in the heart of the Isle of Capri, was it our imagination playing with us at such a high altitude, no it was a very pleasing oasis. So gin and tonics ordered we sat taking in the views sipping our drinks, under the mid day sun with a cool breeze blowing in our hair. Heaven or close to it in every sense of the word.
Refreshments had, our return journey back down to Anacapri, was even more amazing. Again views to die for, spectacular in every way. Getting off the chair lift at the bottom, got a bit dodgy for Tina as she didn’t run away from her chair once exited quickly enough. Instead it bounced back onto her bum and now has a nice bruise. Anyway a great activity and we’ll worth it, so glad we did it.
We then had a wonder around the village of Anacapri. What a beauty, small streets, amazing buildings mostly whitewashed but with a few terracotta, pastel yellow and blue coloured buildings dotted around. An awesome array of shops, all boutique, all selling hand made products from speciality soaps, to leather goods, through to clay ornaments. Where here in mid September and what with the vibrant colours of the flowers, still in bloom, anyone would think we were here in the midst of summer.
The whole of my 5 senses were bursting with pleasure. The sights of the buildings and the overall views, the smells of the flowers, the garlic coming from the pizzarias, the noise of nothing but nature, as the streets are traffic free, the touch of the finest Italian hand made leather goods, and best of all, we stopped off at a pizziaria, sat in their gourds and had the best tiramisu ever together with more Gin and an Irish coffee. Pure bliss.
After such indulgence we opted to go back to the Marina Grande, it was now approaching 3.30pm and our ferry was due to leave at 5.30pm. We stood in a large queue waiting for the bus to arrive. There must have been 100 people in this queue, and it was getting longer every second. As luck would have it, we were stood directly behind a couple who were reading, out loud in English, an extract from “Lonely Planet – Guide to Capri. We couldn’t help but over hear, them read, “don’t wait at the bus stop in Piazza Vittoria with the other tourists, waiting for the bus back to the Marina, instead take a left at the main road, walk 200m to the bus depot as this is the starting point for the bus”. So we made our exit, (discreetly), followed the said instructions and wow found the bus stop with about 6 people waiting in line. So we waited and waited and waited until “the bus” arrived. Somehow we were the first on, so quickly got a seat, Tina sat on my lap, so not to take up 2 seats. On the tourists got, in their hoards, ever pushing the line of standing passengers further inside the bus, until we heard the doors close. My face was squashed against the window, Tina had some ladies handbag pushed again the back of her head, wow I suddenly had a flashback to my childhood as I remembered how to play “sardines” as a youngster. What fun!!!!! Not, not when you’re at our age, with complete highly sweating strangers. However our minds were taken off this as soon as we descended down the hill, as we had prime seats. Again wow those views, by this time the sun had changed position, and was shinning down reflecting off the ocean, bouncing off in all directions from the brightly coloured buildings, absolutely spectacular.
Back in the port we had an hour to kill so mooched around the few shops, bought a couple of nik-naks, and sat and had another drink, well it was hot you know, and we all know you have to keep hydrated, before heading back to mooring 13. Again the world and his wife were all doing the same thing, and appeared to be heading to mooring 13! Again we stood and watched the crowds getting very frustrated with each other, again it was chaotic. Again the saga team were about, arms raised handbags drawn with the sweet little old ladies saying “excuse me”, and somehow getting their way through the hoards to the front of the queue. How do they do it? What can change the innocence of petite, grey haired, 75+ year Old dears from being sweet grandma’s into what we see now? Perhaps they secretly learn these skills, (and others), when they attend their day clubs!!!! That said we ended up being one of the last passengers to board, and low and behold there were no seats left. It appeared 30+ people did not get a seat. They were stood everywhere. However our vessel took the same journey back, so we dropped people off at Port Positano then half an hour later dropped more off at Port Amalfi. When we hit land and disembarked we were physically drained so opted to eat out at a great Mexican restaurant where we enjoyed dinner and a night cap of 1ltr of Sangria. Phew what a day. Tomorrow me thinks a beach day.