Montenegro – Ulcinj 27/7/16 – 31/7/16

Yet another very pleasant bus trip for 2 hours and we are here in Ulcinj. At the south of Montenegro’s peninsula to start our 2 month beach hop around the Adriatic Sea through Montenegro, Croatia and Italy to the Medittarian Sea. You can always spot a beach town location just before you get to it, as the sun is shining, there’s a certain smell in the air and everyone is scantily dressed. Well Ulcinj is no different, it’s quite a small area, but packed as its the main summer season. We got to our apartment to be informed our hosts had contacted booking.com to let them know that there was no room in the inn, but unfortunately no one had let us know. So after a lengthily discussion our hosts asked us to wait whilst they prepared a certain room for us. The view from the terrace was beautiful, looking down onto a small beach and overlooking many houses and the old fortress. What we had booked was a studio apartment with the works ie. TV, kettle, kitchenette, sea view, however the room they showed us was at the back of the building, (no sea view), no kitchenette (no kettle), no TV, however it did have air conditioning and an ensuit so can’t really complain. We decided to stay after a quick check on booking showed other places quite pricey so we said we wanted to drop the price which was agreed. We do however have exclusive use of the terrace.
We were starving so went in the direction of the castle but somehow ended up down by the beach. A great promenade full of restaurants, ice cream parlours and yes bars. After a light lunch we wandered around the foot of the castle and came across a very steep stairwell, so what with us being nosey up we went. And we were pleased we did as this led straight into the old town. It was like nothing we had seen before, all of the old town is enclosed by the castle walls and each building inside it had been refurbished to a high standard, but in the mode of its past. No cheesy souvenir stalls not even a shop of any description, just restaurants and hotels of very high standards, and of course loads and loads of bars. We meandered around its cobbled streets taking in all its glory as we climbed higher and higher into its vortex, every street narrow with no vehicle access and very peaceful. (It would make a fantastic film location for Game of Thrones – in Kings Landing). Onwards upwards and downwards we walked – we’re really going to get fit walking around here – until we spotted a sign advertising the sunset bar. So we followed it down many stone steps, across a courtyard, down more steps, through a ginormous archway and hay presto we were there. What we saw initially was rocks, then 4 poster sun loungers each with cotton curtains flowing in the sea breeze, then turning another corner the bar itself, built on 2 platforms overlooking the sea and the wooden bar itself attached to the cliff face. Fantastic and after all that exercise, we certainly needed a drink or two. Views to die for, across the Adriatic Sea in 1 direction, then other small bays in another direction, and all with the castle walls as its back drop. Cant wait to go back at sunset.
Our digs are high up the cliff face so it was a strenuous journey back up. What had taken us 5 minutes one was, took over 30 minutes back. Cant say if it was the incline or the alcohol!
On our return to our room we noticed all the wardrobe doors had been taped up with parcel tape, and lots of family photos etc, Tina spotted a door and went to open it, there at the other side was a little old lady just staring at the door. She excused herself and as soon as she closed it, it locked from the other side as it was a doorway to our hosts house!!! Now we think we’ve been put in “the granny flat”, oh dear hope she not senile and tries to get back in during the night, cos I’m sleeping on the side of the bed next to the door!
We also spotted a tray with a kettle, cups, spoons and 2 drinking glasses. I think we’ve been upgraded haha.
That night we walked into town again, into the old town and had a great meal. As there are so many restaurants, and only having a few nights in each place, we have started to have main course and drinks in 1 restaurant, then a stroll to another restaurant for dessert and coffees, then onto yet another for drinks afterwards. It’s great and also it makes the walk back more interesting.
The following day, led us a walk around the “Newtown”, again the stroll in the opposite direction was as steep as yesterday’s walk, but still lovely as it wanders around the bay, with just as impressive views.
Ulcinj promenade is like most other European beach fronts, lots of places to eat, drink and enjoy the heat of the summer with gift shops all dotted around. The beach here is quite small and narrow, however it does encircle it’s bay. Lots and lots of holiday makers here with a verity of languages spoken, and the waiting staff have good English. Further into town, again up very steep hills, where the main town lies, are more traditional restaurants, still geared up for the tourists, but where the locals go, therefore more choice in the menu and cheaper prices. Well worth the walk. If all else fails, then like us in the mid afternoon heat, you can always find a taxi to take you back, as they are in plentiful supply, just negotiate the price first.
We read that the castle dates back to the 5th century BC, and has been rebuilt in places several times as the wars have come and gone, and when the walls have been demolished the locals rebuild it quickly restoring it to its former glory.
We went in search of the night club and came across a row of outside bars just under the castle walls. Each decorated in a trendy way and we choose the bar called Big Ben Bar, yep British in every foreign way possible with a full size mini cooper on its roof, full size red phone box, full-size cut out of Mr Bean, the list goes on. There’s about 6 bars along this edge of the waterfront all connected to the same, very large, very loud sound system, and all outdoors. A great idea me thinks. We decided to visit “long beach” which is a 12 km stretch of beach just south of Ulcinj, about a 10 minute drive away, and you can get a mini van there for €1 pp each way. So we spent the next couple of days there. Long beach (Valika Plaza) is sectioned into various different beaches such as Miami, White, Noki its 12km long and has very fine dark sand. Not knowing where to get off our mini van, we opted for the stop where the other 8 passengers got off, walked to the beach and came across yet another oasis. We could either pay €7 each for a wooden sun bed in one area or €15 for a luxurious circular sun lounger, all padded with cushions, tables and parasol, (enough room for a family of 4 on each one). Bet you can guess which we chose! It was stunning, very relaxing, very peaceful and right on the waters edge. This particular beach was called Paradise Beach, and its name was well placed. We talked to the owners of it who originally came from Norway and got their inspiration from a holiday they had in the Maldives – we thought it looked familiar. The beach area only opened up this week and their bar on the beach front opens next week. It has to be on your “go to places” if you in the neighbourhood. What a wonderful thing to do.
Visiting Ulcinj has been very nice, a coastal town where old meets new, however the new architecture matches the themes of the old town, very impressive. If you ever come here, ladies please bring your flat shoes as the streets are narrow, cobbled very steep and slippery. The amount of ladies trying their best on an evening to walk these streets in high heels was very amusing. There’s plenty to do for all ages, whether your in the 18/30 brigade and want clubbing every night, or your a family with young children wanting a beach holiday (the sea is shallow), or your in your senior years exploring a medieval township, it has it all. We have really loved this tiny corner of the world.